What a dramatically spectacular last night in Laos! After a bleeding hot and humid day, as the sun was setting, Mother Nature started gusting her winds, bolder with each breath. The rain is pouring down onto the tin roof above me, beyond my protecting mozzie net. I’ve just about packed everything for my 9:30 bus in the morning and am blissfully reflecting on my last few days.
Here in Vang Vieng I’ve formed a little family. They found me my first night when I was having a sundowner at a bar on the river and writing. They were in the booth next to me and started including me in some of their jokes. One of the guys came and sat next to me and said, squinting and pointing his finger at me, “You look like you’re very interesting. I’m tired and going now, but I would like to find out more about you. Do you want to grab a meal with me tomorrow?" I suppose that’s the closest thing as being asked out on a date that I’ve been graced with in a long time. It was super sweet and all I said, smiling, was, “I’m really not that interesting." I thought he was a creepy guy but as I grew to know Steve I found that is just his way of life. He talks to everyone, especially people he’s intrigued by. He’s a weathered Welsh hippie with a heart of gold and more funny stories than the endless Friends episodes that were playing at all the bars.
(Yes - side note, Friends and Family Guy re-runs were being played at every bar and restaurant. And people just lounged around during the hot days watching those shows. Bizarre! Yet I did do it - just one day! - and it was like I had all the comforts of home all the way across the world.)
So Steve became my first friend when we bumped into each other again the next day in town. He was hanging out with 2 other single girl travelers, both also from California. None of them knew each other prior to getting to Laos. Jen and Danielle were such open, happy, amazing women. We all met and clicked and have laughed for hours and hours and just provided a warm environment for each other, where you can be silly and you’re protected.
Aside from a whole hot of hanging out in hammocks with a non-osculating osculating fan we also got out of the town and enjoyed the nature. We rented bikes one day and rode them out to the Blue Lagoon, which was this gorgeous crystal blue natural spring with big, colorful chillin woven straw mats on the lawn above it and a bunch of people laying out, eating, drinking, playing soccer, just picnicking and enjoying the natural beauty. From there you could walk up a trail for about 10 minutes and get into a huuuuuge cave. I guess you can go back into the cave for 2 hours - it’s that big! We only went inside and climbed around a little bit. There was a gold statue of a Thai god or something, sleeping, in this little shrine. It was a memorable view… this sleeping God in the depths of this huge limestone mountain which was illuminated by the only bit of sun beans sneaking in the small cave openings.
Probably the biggest touristy thing in Vang Vieng is the tubing. Tons of gap-year kids get dropped off with tubes at the other end of the river, where there are bars on the water pumping dance music and lots of girls in bikinis and shirtless guys getting wasted and partying. As you tube down there are bars all along the river and they pull you in and give you free shots and stuff. And there are rope swims and trapezes from platforms all over with these drunk kids flying by. It’s really a hysterical scene, and although we didn’t want to partake, we did want to check it out. I should be clear about why we didn’t want to participate… if those things didn’t sound like enough of a reason… in town you see SO many people injured. A guy in a neck brace, a girl in a sling, lots of people with motorcycle burns and bandaged limbs. If anyone would get hurt I am certain I would so NO.
Instead we went to the Mulberry Organic Farm across the river from the tubing drop-off bar to check out the farm and then maybe spy on the tubing scene a little. After discovering yummy organic Mulberry Wine from the riverside in our sophisticated wine glasses, and proper laughing ensuing over the party people, we did exactly what I knew we would. We joined them. We joined the tubers.
Kind of. The bar we went to was pretty empty and pumping good break beat music and we had a big deck above the river all to ourselves, where we shared stories and some booty-shaking. After a beer the trapeze became a serious consideration. That shit was from a HIGH platform and I didn’t have a bathing suit, so I thought I was in the clear. Not so. Me and my cute yellow dress (which I later lost. Yes really. I don‘t know how either.) did the water trapeze and then we were joined by all these super cute Lao kids who went on the trapeze with us, laughing and smiling and having so much fun. Playing with the kids was a pristine part of a beautiful day. It helped me be a kid again. Just for those few hours. Carefree and happy.
I’m chillin in my hammock watching the last of the storm roll past and thinking how damn lucky I am. This brief adventure in my life is coming to an end, and from it I’ve learned more than I ever thought I would. I love Laos and would love to spend weeks in the backcountry here learning more about the people and saturating myself in the natural beauty. It’s an interesting time to be here because you can see it’s rapidly changing and in a few years it will be more touristy, less authentic. I know that I am probably destined to go back to business, and can only hope my appreciation for the small things, the REAL things, will continue once I have a full wallet and a small amount of time off again. Tonight I sleep in a rugged bungalow owned by a local man and his wife. Everything around me is basic but keeps me safe and happy. I pay $5 a night for this. And the reality is I am so much happier than I was when I had a full bank account and an expensive NY City apartment. I fear losing a lot of what I’ve learned here. I’ve been pulled into this life unexpectedly for a reason. To learn all these lessons. I’ve got to be a trailblazer. Continue to be, I should say. I’ve got to find ways to keep life this simple, this good. It won’t be easy.
Wow, that is a eerie statement: I’ve got to find ways to keep life this simple, this good. It won’t be easy.
Recalculating…
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
Monday, April 04, 2011
I'm a Weapon of Mass Consumption
Tuesday April 5: Vientiane, Laos
I arrived in Vientiane, Laos last night after a ferry, taxi, 2 planes and another taxi. I am so glad I came here. Immediately when I got off that tiny plane into a little airport, people approached me so kindly and warm, smiling and speaking perfect English. Offering services but not being pushy at all. It’s such a stark contrast from yesterday, when I got off the ferry that took me from Koh Phangan to Koh Samui (to catch my plane up here) and was swarmed by people in company polo shirts holding up maps and taxi prices trying to get me into their overpriced taxi (which I actually did out of sheer fear).
I have coined Vientiane, “Consumption Junction.” For me. I finished my fast/detox yesterday and last night did my very best job at re-toxifying. It definitely took a pathetically puny amount to do it, but for the first time in Thailand (!!… I am sofuckingold) I went out drinking with a cool group of (22yr old) kids and then went dancing. This morning I could barely scrape my ass out of bed to have breakfast before 11. But this is Consumption Junction. We consume here. So I powered on. In the elevator I met a cool guy from Santa Monica who invited me to join him and his friend for smoke. Cha-ching! So needless to say having a great morning, feel great and recovered from last night and consuming lots…. Of water. And espresso. And a yummy oatmeal raisin cooking.
The re-toxification process is well deserved though. I only did a 4 ½ day detox at Ananda Wellness Resort but it was no joke. Every hour I had to be at the Detox Bar or having a treatment, which was great because it kept me mildly busy. I’d start every day at 7:30 at the bar drinking (what I think was) a fiber drink. A hour later I’d take a handful of herbal capsules. A little later I’d have an hour massage, shake and then a colonic. The rest of the day was much of the shakes and herbs and then in the evening another colonic. I had 9 effing colonics in 5 days. If that didn’t flush out the shit (haha) lodged internally, nothing will.
On top of the regular detox I did a liver and gallbladder cleanse, and a treatment for parasites. All that means is I had a few other concoctions a few times a day. The interesting thing is I expected to feel like shit, and I never did. I mean, I was tired, yes. And one night after drinking ½ cup of olive oil mixed with lime juice, I was nauseous. Who wouldn’t be though. Other than that it was completely bearable. I wasn’t even hungry. Except the last night, knowing I could eat the next day. The little kid at fat camp came out in me and I found myself scheming to leave and get some potato chips (of all things). But I was strong!
I did dream every night about food. And once about smoking. And once that my parents bought me a house. None of that actually transpired, though. Unfortunately. (The house was super cool.)
In the end I lost 3 kilos, so about 6 pounds. Yeah! Beer belly be gone!
There was a yoga school attached to the resort and I took a couple classes, but they were 2 hour classes of the hatha nature, which means realllllly spiritual chackra stuff and standing still and feeeeeeling the energy. I love that at times but definitely not in that state.
Actually - no, I never love that. I’m lying. I get so bored. I know the point is to practice so you can train your mind to be still but I just don’t have the patience for it, to be honest. Definitely not when all the built up toxins and internal crap is pouring into my bloodstream and trying frantically to find a way out. I will say, the colonics I had after those classes were… dare I say… delightful!
The last night there the resort had a live jam-session which was really groovetastic. I couldn’t help but think of my mom and what she’d think. Sometimes I try to see things through her eyes, and I know exactly what she’d say and the look she’d give me. I am laughing right now, because I am picturing my mom’s ‘what the hell is this?’ look (which, I just realized, I copied and do the same look, so you will know hers if you picture mine). There were the African drums and a guitar played by shirtless, tan and skinny, long-haired, thai fisherman pant-wearing dudes. A sitar. A sax with a hot little lady ripping it up. And this shaman-type dude ‘singing’. Really it was more of a grunting in pitches held in long notes. Once in a while he sounded like an American Indian doing a ritual around a fire. (hOOwaaaaWhoOOooaaahhh, hOOwaaaaWhoOOooaaahhh).
Lounging around them on colorful, triangle thai floor cushions were dread-locked, happy, barefoot hippies, occasionally picking up a home-made instrument and joining in. In general, just totally blissed out zensters. The guy in front of me had this really cool piece of bamboo with (walnut?) shells roped around it so he was the cow bell. More (Cow) Shell! We were all held together by a lovely bamboo hut strung with lights and a (finally) clear sky.
My favorite though was this French guy who had a steel pipe about 3 feet long painted aqua-blue. From that he pulled out an almost identical pipe and fastened them together, so it was about 6 feet long. When he first started playing it like a didgeridoo he got my attention and immediately made me smile. Then when I thought it couldn’t be better he started beat-boxing using the mouth of the didgeridoo. And THEN he SOMEHOW managed to be playing the didgeridoo AND beat-boxing simultaneously. Brilliance!!! It’s not often I see something so unique and totally virtuoso and I was blown away.
(thank you thesaurus, ‘virtuoso’ - great word!)
I must go. Consumption Junction is calling. Ciao for now!
I arrived in Vientiane, Laos last night after a ferry, taxi, 2 planes and another taxi. I am so glad I came here. Immediately when I got off that tiny plane into a little airport, people approached me so kindly and warm, smiling and speaking perfect English. Offering services but not being pushy at all. It’s such a stark contrast from yesterday, when I got off the ferry that took me from Koh Phangan to Koh Samui (to catch my plane up here) and was swarmed by people in company polo shirts holding up maps and taxi prices trying to get me into their overpriced taxi (which I actually did out of sheer fear).
I have coined Vientiane, “Consumption Junction.” For me. I finished my fast/detox yesterday and last night did my very best job at re-toxifying. It definitely took a pathetically puny amount to do it, but for the first time in Thailand (!!… I am sofuckingold) I went out drinking with a cool group of (22yr old) kids and then went dancing. This morning I could barely scrape my ass out of bed to have breakfast before 11. But this is Consumption Junction. We consume here. So I powered on. In the elevator I met a cool guy from Santa Monica who invited me to join him and his friend for smoke. Cha-ching! So needless to say having a great morning, feel great and recovered from last night and consuming lots…. Of water. And espresso. And a yummy oatmeal raisin cooking.
The re-toxification process is well deserved though. I only did a 4 ½ day detox at Ananda Wellness Resort but it was no joke. Every hour I had to be at the Detox Bar or having a treatment, which was great because it kept me mildly busy. I’d start every day at 7:30 at the bar drinking (what I think was) a fiber drink. A hour later I’d take a handful of herbal capsules. A little later I’d have an hour massage, shake and then a colonic. The rest of the day was much of the shakes and herbs and then in the evening another colonic. I had 9 effing colonics in 5 days. If that didn’t flush out the shit (haha) lodged internally, nothing will.
On top of the regular detox I did a liver and gallbladder cleanse, and a treatment for parasites. All that means is I had a few other concoctions a few times a day. The interesting thing is I expected to feel like shit, and I never did. I mean, I was tired, yes. And one night after drinking ½ cup of olive oil mixed with lime juice, I was nauseous. Who wouldn’t be though. Other than that it was completely bearable. I wasn’t even hungry. Except the last night, knowing I could eat the next day. The little kid at fat camp came out in me and I found myself scheming to leave and get some potato chips (of all things). But I was strong!
I did dream every night about food. And once about smoking. And once that my parents bought me a house. None of that actually transpired, though. Unfortunately. (The house was super cool.)
In the end I lost 3 kilos, so about 6 pounds. Yeah! Beer belly be gone!
There was a yoga school attached to the resort and I took a couple classes, but they were 2 hour classes of the hatha nature, which means realllllly spiritual chackra stuff and standing still and feeeeeeling the energy. I love that at times but definitely not in that state.
Actually - no, I never love that. I’m lying. I get so bored. I know the point is to practice so you can train your mind to be still but I just don’t have the patience for it, to be honest. Definitely not when all the built up toxins and internal crap is pouring into my bloodstream and trying frantically to find a way out. I will say, the colonics I had after those classes were… dare I say… delightful!
The last night there the resort had a live jam-session which was really groovetastic. I couldn’t help but think of my mom and what she’d think. Sometimes I try to see things through her eyes, and I know exactly what she’d say and the look she’d give me. I am laughing right now, because I am picturing my mom’s ‘what the hell is this?’ look (which, I just realized, I copied and do the same look, so you will know hers if you picture mine). There were the African drums and a guitar played by shirtless, tan and skinny, long-haired, thai fisherman pant-wearing dudes. A sitar. A sax with a hot little lady ripping it up. And this shaman-type dude ‘singing’. Really it was more of a grunting in pitches held in long notes. Once in a while he sounded like an American Indian doing a ritual around a fire. (hOOwaaaaWhoOOooaaahhh, hOOwaaaaWhoOOooaaahhh).
Lounging around them on colorful, triangle thai floor cushions were dread-locked, happy, barefoot hippies, occasionally picking up a home-made instrument and joining in. In general, just totally blissed out zensters. The guy in front of me had this really cool piece of bamboo with (walnut?) shells roped around it so he was the cow bell. More (Cow) Shell! We were all held together by a lovely bamboo hut strung with lights and a (finally) clear sky.
My favorite though was this French guy who had a steel pipe about 3 feet long painted aqua-blue. From that he pulled out an almost identical pipe and fastened them together, so it was about 6 feet long. When he first started playing it like a didgeridoo he got my attention and immediately made me smile. Then when I thought it couldn’t be better he started beat-boxing using the mouth of the didgeridoo. And THEN he SOMEHOW managed to be playing the didgeridoo AND beat-boxing simultaneously. Brilliance!!! It’s not often I see something so unique and totally virtuoso and I was blown away.
(thank you thesaurus, ‘virtuoso’ - great word!)
I must go. Consumption Junction is calling. Ciao for now!
Wednesday, March 30, 2011
The Movie Star, Professor and Mary-Ann...
I finally got away from the hotel I’ve been stranded and lonely in, watching the torrential tropical rains from my bungalow and feeling the huge gusts of wind rip the leaves off the trees surrounding me. Protecting me. Before I did I was able to rent a DVD player in my bungalow and I watched ‘The Beach’ with Leonardo DeCaprio, which was actually filmed in Bangkok and here in the islands in Thailand and it was fun to watch what it *would* look like here if it weren’t pouring. Crazy to believe it’s the same place. Just as crazy was looking through the brochure for my resort, Tommy’s, which appears to be at the heart of the full moon parties. These photos show tons of people partying to psy-trance on the beach, painting their bodies in glow paints, drinking buckets of coke/rum/red bull and raving their asses off. The only people I saw while I was there were the people running around repairing leaving bungalows, collecting wind-thrown trash and branches, etc. I can’t believe it was the same place!!
Today I was able to get to the other side of the island to a detox/yoga place called Ananda Wellness Resort. My taxi driver showed me the HUGE boulder that had fell, blocked half of the road and taken down the electric line, which is why we were without electricity for 2 days. The entire island is in shambles. During our drive he told me he’d never seen this before. We’re supposed to be ‘sweating our tits off.’ Ahhh how I wish we were.
I had to switch taxis at the pier (because nothing can be as smooth as 1 car actually going a whole 10km in Thailand) and there were hundreds of backpackers, hiding under roofs and waiting and trashing 7-11. They were all waiting for the boat the army was sending over to get ‘stranded’ people on the island. No other boats have been able to go back and forth for days. I later heard that boat, too, was canceled. I can hear the Gilligan’s Island song in my head. “Well sit right back and you’ll hear a tale…” I wonder who I’d be. Probably Gilligan, no? Even the army can’t help us! Shit!
So heading to Ananda’s for this detox that starts tomorrow I seriously feel like I’m checking into fat camp. And I’m acting like it, too. While I was waiting for my 2nd taxi I went into 7-11 to get tea, because that seemed like a healthy thing to do, but there was so much mayhem in there and so crazy I instinctively grabbed a bag of chocolates and in the taxi started ramming them in my mouth, barely chewing, smiling a chocolate-glistening grin with crumbs all over me. I saved half the bag and once I got in my room I shoved the rest down my throat even faster. I was manically giggling and shoving the food in. Like a fat kid sneaking food at fat camp. I’m totally serious. I’m THAT pathetic.
Since I don’t technically start until 8am tomorrow I am shoveling in some pasta and beer and will have a cigarette for dessert.
Today I was able to get to the other side of the island to a detox/yoga place called Ananda Wellness Resort. My taxi driver showed me the HUGE boulder that had fell, blocked half of the road and taken down the electric line, which is why we were without electricity for 2 days. The entire island is in shambles. During our drive he told me he’d never seen this before. We’re supposed to be ‘sweating our tits off.’ Ahhh how I wish we were.
I had to switch taxis at the pier (because nothing can be as smooth as 1 car actually going a whole 10km in Thailand) and there were hundreds of backpackers, hiding under roofs and waiting and trashing 7-11. They were all waiting for the boat the army was sending over to get ‘stranded’ people on the island. No other boats have been able to go back and forth for days. I later heard that boat, too, was canceled. I can hear the Gilligan’s Island song in my head. “Well sit right back and you’ll hear a tale…” I wonder who I’d be. Probably Gilligan, no? Even the army can’t help us! Shit!
So heading to Ananda’s for this detox that starts tomorrow I seriously feel like I’m checking into fat camp. And I’m acting like it, too. While I was waiting for my 2nd taxi I went into 7-11 to get tea, because that seemed like a healthy thing to do, but there was so much mayhem in there and so crazy I instinctively grabbed a bag of chocolates and in the taxi started ramming them in my mouth, barely chewing, smiling a chocolate-glistening grin with crumbs all over me. I saved half the bag and once I got in my room I shoved the rest down my throat even faster. I was manically giggling and shoving the food in. Like a fat kid sneaking food at fat camp. I’m totally serious. I’m THAT pathetic.
Since I don’t technically start until 8am tomorrow I am shoveling in some pasta and beer and will have a cigarette for dessert.
Sunday, March 27, 2011
My last days in Pai kept being extended. Just when I thought I would leave the next day I reconsidered and stayed. This happened twice and I still wish I had stayed longer. Pai is a tiny little town jam-packed with hippies, shops, bars, live music and fashion victims. Like Burningman there’s a hippie fashion throughout but no one would ever claim to never be a fashion victim. Everyone’s so ‘different’ and ‘unique’ but really people start to bleed together and look the same. It’s funny how that happens. I’m a total victim of the baggie multi-colored pants and headbands, so there. All I need are some dreadlocks. And don’t think I haven’t been considering it.
The hippie laid-back vibe and interesting people I met just grew exponentially in my heart every day. Usually when I travel alone I hole up, by choice, which I did a lot there, but I also stopped to talk to people and get their stories, and every one was more interesting than the last. Even through grueling stories of losing wives to bipolar schizophrenia and things of the sort, the contentment of each individual was something you can’t explain unless you look in their eyes, or pass them in the street with a big grin, and get the same in return. Dancing eyes.
There were also the people who landed there for a 3-day visit and live there - and these people were everywhere. I can totally see how it would happen. It’s such a magical little piece of heaven. With killer drink specials, cheap yummy food, $5 massages, live music and scenic mountains seemingly surrounding Pai with a warm, cozy hug.
I rented a bike to go to the waterfall not knowing it was 12km uphill. It was over 95 degrees and smack in the middle of the day, with the sun beating down on me and the ground moving higher and higher with each step. I had to push the damn 1-speed bike about 11 of the 12km because it was so steep. It took me over 2 hours to get there and less than a ½ to get back. The waterfall was totally not worth it but the challenge was, and at least I got to justify the massage afterward.
Speaking of massages, one night I was having a massage at sunset and could hear some progressive house music and bass in the distance and between that, the vibe, the smells and the weather I felt I could have actually been at Burningman. After my massage I followed the music to - of course - a DJ from San Francisco, Max, who was planning to go to Burningman this year with nothing but his backpack full of music. It was all surreal and felt like my current life and past lives were merging. Max was one of those people you can only take in small doses so I tried talking to his friend, Constantine from Austria. I told him I was planning to go to the islands and do a juice detox for a week and he started telling me about the silent meditation retreats he’s done, where you don’t talk for 10 days and just meditate. He had me hooked until he got more preachy than informative and I came to learn he’s a healer and does 6 hours of Thai Chi a day, and basically from a whole other world than me. I’d love to be that spiritual and all of it, but it’s just not in the cards for me to be so full-on. As I listened, eyes-wide, nodding, I sucked down a rum and coke in record time and realized this was never going to lead me to inspiration. It was going to lead to a hangover.
So, aside from the passing hippies there were also the quintessential over-stacked motorbikes that I adore. My mom would have a heart attack. My favorite was the person who had their kid behind them on the seat and the dog on the front of that tiny seat made for 1. The dog was just chillin with its paws hanging over the handlebars… hysterical! Then I also saw the other tourist that found a better method of traveling with his suitcase on a motorbike. He sat behind the driver and rolled the suitcase behind the bike. Why didn’t I think if that!? There’s always the babies on bikes too, and helmets don’t exist.
The place I stayed in Pai was magical. Bueng Pai Farm, where I had a quiet bungalow on a fishing pond out in the country. It was so serene and a great recommendation from a friend. I fell asleep to the sounds of fish jumping as I lay under my mozzie net. Heavenly! They had an organic farm and served breakfast - all vegetarian and home-grown. Every day I had a fruit and muesli bowl which was to-die-for and even had popcorn in it (!) and ice shakes. One day was a Lemongrass Iced Tea, another a Mint Ginger Iced Tea. So fresh, so incredible. And the coffee was stellar. They passed the coffee test with flying tie-dyed colors.
While I was there I took a full-day cooking course at Pai Cookery. Having attempted a few times to cook Thai food I was astonished by the small details that make the whole dish. I made red curry paste from scratch, which took no less than 30 minutes of pounding out the garlic, chillis, lemongrass, shallot, coriander, galangal, kefir lime peel, cumin and coriander seeds. We also made Pad Thai, Mixed Vegis, Coconut Milk Soup and Mango Sticky Rice dishes, and ate all them over the course - and they were incredible! I have the recipes but already shipped them home. Anyone who wants them (I’m talking to you Amy!) email me and I’ll send them when I get home. During my cooking class we listened to Backstreet Boys. Backstreet’s back, alright?
A Thai woman named ‘Q’ taught the class and also showed me there are 6 different ways to write her name, each with the smallest variance in sound. It’s no wonder I’ve had such a hard time picking up the basics in Thai language! I’ve got ‘hello’ and ‘thank you’ down, despite the fact I’m sure my pronunciation is wrong and I’m butchering this beautiful language to death.
A guy from Holland, Lauzars, was the only other person in my class and since we were both traveling south we have taken the train and bus together. This is mostly because he’s really clingy. Super nice, but I am traveling alone because, well, I like to be alone. Anyway… here on in he will be known as Cling. Cling from Holland.
I also met an Israeli guy (err, little boy really) named Jonathan, who I also bumped into over and over. This was one of the cool things about Pai. After a few days I could walk around and bump into people I’d met and hang out for a bit and then move on. Repeat sightings. Jonathan, aka Yonathan my Israeli little brother pot head, had scored some weed within an hour of being there and went on to make me laugh for hours. Jonny did. Not the weed. Right. Anyway I bumped into him again my last night while I was watching a hippie-esque singer and guitar duo sing Sarah MacLachlan, Norah Jones and other stuff I love. He and I shared a bucket… as in a bucket of liquor, the specialty in Pai, although that was the only one I had AND I couldn’t even get through half. Somewhere in our conversation he actually said, “You remind me of my mom.” More on being the oldest person traveling in Thailand coming soon.
A few weeks earlier Jonny fell off a motorbike and his knee split open and he knee actually popped fully out of the skin. He had to fly back to Israel for surgery and was back traveling, just like that. He is just one of a handful of people I’ve met with motorbike accident stories and yet another reason I am sticking with my two little feet to get around.
The day I left Bueng Pai Farm the lovely managers, Run and Orn, gave me a gift wrapped in a banana leaf. It was a shirt and a little bag, and made me smile ear-to-ear. The warmth I found there was incredible and since I left I still think every day how much I felt at home there.
My last night in Pai as I was walking back to my hostel I was sneaking around feeding all the street dogs some jerky treats I bought earlier in the day. I was a but tipsy from the bucket I shared with Jonny and I was sort of dancing around and loving feeding time. A guy passed me on the street while I was and I straightened up, walked not danced, hid the dog treats (but couldn’t hide my pack of new friends following me), smiled at him and whispered “Don’t tell on me.” His response was, “No, you’re like The Pope!”
I am still laughing at that. Yep, me... just like the Pope. *cough*
From Pai I took a 3-hour bus trip to Chiang Mai where I stayed at an overpriced hotel but on the best little alley there. Overpriced in Thailand is $25 a night, and I had a TV in the room. Sweet! My little alley also had a little raggae bar that was super chill where the owner played a eukaleli and served 50baht ($1.50) yummy mojitos. A few doors down was Thai Thai Restaurant. The first time I went in there the owner/cook, P-Sea (not to be confused with PC, she told me a few hundred times), sat down and talked with me for an hour. She told me the next time I came in I could order anything I wanted and she’d take me in the kitchen and show me how to cook it. And she did! And she let me videotape it (actually she insisted). She could explain all the ingredients except one, which she said she didn’t know if I have in my country. So I took a photo of this ‘Pork Flavoring,’ or in my best guess, MSG. No wonder I was so hooked on this lady’s cooking. “P-Sea,” I said, “Yes, I do think we have this in our country.” I didn’t tell her we don’t cook with it cause it’ll kill ya, though.
P-Sea also hooked me up with a discount for a one-day trek that included riding elephants, trekking, visiting a hill tribe, a bamboo boat ride, and a waterfall visit. I had a really great day because I enjoyed the people in my group. There were 2 doctors from London, a dentist and political student from Germany and a couple from Holland. It’s so beautiful that you can meet people from so far away with such different backgrounds yet share time and jokes seamlessly. So we did that day. Aside from them, I felt very sad. Talk about extreme overexposure. Those poor elephants were chained up and clocked on the head with a stick that had a metal hook on the end of it and I hated every minute of it. It was against my better judgment to go and I should have listened to my instincts. I’ve tried to do some volunteer work on this trip, helping elephants that have been rescued from these situations and I was too late to join the program. I feel shameful for spending money and ’supporting’ - monetarily - the elephant farm. It’s been sitting heavy on my heart ever since.
Back in Chiang Mai I met up with Cling from Holland and we did some shopping at the Chiang Mai night market (great stuff!) and took a night train to Bangkok to start our trip south. We decided to make a party train and brought some beers and Thai rum with us. We were being silly and dancing to cheesy pop music when we decided to go to the other car for a quick cigarette, when we encroached on the REAL Party Train to Bangkok. The dining car was packed with people, smokey and dark but with blinky neon lights and everyone was dancing to some Indian-inspired dance music. We hit the jackpot! After ordering a beer I danced with the older ladies from France that reminded me of my mom and had a perfect night of singing and dancing. Over a week into my trip and this was the first time I had a ‘night out’ of partying and it was surreal. Being bounced back and forth by the train and watching the night sky from the windows, smiling huge and shakin my butt. A memorable and needed night in Thailand.
We arrived in Bangkok right before 8am, just in time for the Thai anthem to be broadcast over the speakers. 2 people tried to stop us and I thought they were trying to sell me something so I barreled through. “Stop, please.” Then I realized this is part of their culture. 8am the anthem is played and everyone stops and salutes until it’s over. So after I finally figured it out I felt like an idiot for my insensitivity and joined in. They thanked me over and over afterward. Oops.
With a day to kill in Bangkok before a night bus south (yes, another night in transit…) we took a long boat on the river and went through some of the canals and got to see some temples, fishing villages and the river culture in general, with people in their little boats selling cokes, red bulls, hats, hand fans, etc. I will never forget one woman who approached us because I think I have never seen anyone as truly, genuinely happy as this woman. And why shouldn’t she be? She wanders around all day on her little boat meeting people and visiting friends on the canals. It makes me realize that life is what you make it. The simplest things can really bring the most joy.
I wish I could have learned more from that woman, because the rest of my day could have been great - spending a day sight-seeing in Bangkok. But I was exhausted, hungover, out of it. I wandered without looking at maps and was lost all day. I saw the inside of 2 cabs which both dropped me where I asked to be, but then I couldn’t find my way from there. I walked all day and by the time I got on the night bus I was cranky and dirty and slept all the way down.
My 6pm bus arrived - somewhere - at 6am. We were at an outdoor café covered from the rain. There we had a 1 ½ hour wait, then took a small van to another place where we waited for another bus… then that took us a couple hours to the ferry. It was Hell. It took forever. By the time we got to the ferry they were holding us because the waters were so rough. The rain was pouring and the wind was kicking. We got on the boat after about 20 minutes and for the next 2 hours we slammed through the high waves and I could only think how lucky I was for having a stable stomach, for once.
I’ve been on Koh Phangan for 2 nights now and it’s been a tropical monsoon the whole time. I am stayed at a place called Haad Son Resort and have finished 1 book and am almost through another. I have a bungalow with a covered porch and hammock. I’ve been lying in the hammock reading, chain-smoking and enjoying the sounds of the rain and wind, and the glistening, dripping tropical plants surrounding me. The food here is amazing and I had the best Thai fried Red Snapped with chili sauce in the world. The grounds are beautiful and there’s a great beach bar - with swings, hammocks, torches, overgrown palm tree shade, huts. I just wish the weather was nice enough to enjoy it! Today I am heading to The Santuary, to clean out my tar-stained lungs and exhausted liver, doing a 7-day detox cleanse and lots of yoga.
Sitting here today thinking... this is the calmest, happiest and whole I’ve ever been. What’s next?
The hippie laid-back vibe and interesting people I met just grew exponentially in my heart every day. Usually when I travel alone I hole up, by choice, which I did a lot there, but I also stopped to talk to people and get their stories, and every one was more interesting than the last. Even through grueling stories of losing wives to bipolar schizophrenia and things of the sort, the contentment of each individual was something you can’t explain unless you look in their eyes, or pass them in the street with a big grin, and get the same in return. Dancing eyes.
There were also the people who landed there for a 3-day visit and live there - and these people were everywhere. I can totally see how it would happen. It’s such a magical little piece of heaven. With killer drink specials, cheap yummy food, $5 massages, live music and scenic mountains seemingly surrounding Pai with a warm, cozy hug.
I rented a bike to go to the waterfall not knowing it was 12km uphill. It was over 95 degrees and smack in the middle of the day, with the sun beating down on me and the ground moving higher and higher with each step. I had to push the damn 1-speed bike about 11 of the 12km because it was so steep. It took me over 2 hours to get there and less than a ½ to get back. The waterfall was totally not worth it but the challenge was, and at least I got to justify the massage afterward.
Speaking of massages, one night I was having a massage at sunset and could hear some progressive house music and bass in the distance and between that, the vibe, the smells and the weather I felt I could have actually been at Burningman. After my massage I followed the music to - of course - a DJ from San Francisco, Max, who was planning to go to Burningman this year with nothing but his backpack full of music. It was all surreal and felt like my current life and past lives were merging. Max was one of those people you can only take in small doses so I tried talking to his friend, Constantine from Austria. I told him I was planning to go to the islands and do a juice detox for a week and he started telling me about the silent meditation retreats he’s done, where you don’t talk for 10 days and just meditate. He had me hooked until he got more preachy than informative and I came to learn he’s a healer and does 6 hours of Thai Chi a day, and basically from a whole other world than me. I’d love to be that spiritual and all of it, but it’s just not in the cards for me to be so full-on. As I listened, eyes-wide, nodding, I sucked down a rum and coke in record time and realized this was never going to lead me to inspiration. It was going to lead to a hangover.
So, aside from the passing hippies there were also the quintessential over-stacked motorbikes that I adore. My mom would have a heart attack. My favorite was the person who had their kid behind them on the seat and the dog on the front of that tiny seat made for 1. The dog was just chillin with its paws hanging over the handlebars… hysterical! Then I also saw the other tourist that found a better method of traveling with his suitcase on a motorbike. He sat behind the driver and rolled the suitcase behind the bike. Why didn’t I think if that!? There’s always the babies on bikes too, and helmets don’t exist.
The place I stayed in Pai was magical. Bueng Pai Farm, where I had a quiet bungalow on a fishing pond out in the country. It was so serene and a great recommendation from a friend. I fell asleep to the sounds of fish jumping as I lay under my mozzie net. Heavenly! They had an organic farm and served breakfast - all vegetarian and home-grown. Every day I had a fruit and muesli bowl which was to-die-for and even had popcorn in it (!) and ice shakes. One day was a Lemongrass Iced Tea, another a Mint Ginger Iced Tea. So fresh, so incredible. And the coffee was stellar. They passed the coffee test with flying tie-dyed colors.
While I was there I took a full-day cooking course at Pai Cookery. Having attempted a few times to cook Thai food I was astonished by the small details that make the whole dish. I made red curry paste from scratch, which took no less than 30 minutes of pounding out the garlic, chillis, lemongrass, shallot, coriander, galangal, kefir lime peel, cumin and coriander seeds. We also made Pad Thai, Mixed Vegis, Coconut Milk Soup and Mango Sticky Rice dishes, and ate all them over the course - and they were incredible! I have the recipes but already shipped them home. Anyone who wants them (I’m talking to you Amy!) email me and I’ll send them when I get home. During my cooking class we listened to Backstreet Boys. Backstreet’s back, alright?
A Thai woman named ‘Q’ taught the class and also showed me there are 6 different ways to write her name, each with the smallest variance in sound. It’s no wonder I’ve had such a hard time picking up the basics in Thai language! I’ve got ‘hello’ and ‘thank you’ down, despite the fact I’m sure my pronunciation is wrong and I’m butchering this beautiful language to death.
A guy from Holland, Lauzars, was the only other person in my class and since we were both traveling south we have taken the train and bus together. This is mostly because he’s really clingy. Super nice, but I am traveling alone because, well, I like to be alone. Anyway… here on in he will be known as Cling. Cling from Holland.
I also met an Israeli guy (err, little boy really) named Jonathan, who I also bumped into over and over. This was one of the cool things about Pai. After a few days I could walk around and bump into people I’d met and hang out for a bit and then move on. Repeat sightings. Jonathan, aka Yonathan my Israeli little brother pot head, had scored some weed within an hour of being there and went on to make me laugh for hours. Jonny did. Not the weed. Right. Anyway I bumped into him again my last night while I was watching a hippie-esque singer and guitar duo sing Sarah MacLachlan, Norah Jones and other stuff I love. He and I shared a bucket… as in a bucket of liquor, the specialty in Pai, although that was the only one I had AND I couldn’t even get through half. Somewhere in our conversation he actually said, “You remind me of my mom.” More on being the oldest person traveling in Thailand coming soon.
A few weeks earlier Jonny fell off a motorbike and his knee split open and he knee actually popped fully out of the skin. He had to fly back to Israel for surgery and was back traveling, just like that. He is just one of a handful of people I’ve met with motorbike accident stories and yet another reason I am sticking with my two little feet to get around.
The day I left Bueng Pai Farm the lovely managers, Run and Orn, gave me a gift wrapped in a banana leaf. It was a shirt and a little bag, and made me smile ear-to-ear. The warmth I found there was incredible and since I left I still think every day how much I felt at home there.
My last night in Pai as I was walking back to my hostel I was sneaking around feeding all the street dogs some jerky treats I bought earlier in the day. I was a but tipsy from the bucket I shared with Jonny and I was sort of dancing around and loving feeding time. A guy passed me on the street while I was and I straightened up, walked not danced, hid the dog treats (but couldn’t hide my pack of new friends following me), smiled at him and whispered “Don’t tell on me.” His response was, “No, you’re like The Pope!”
I am still laughing at that. Yep, me... just like the Pope. *cough*
From Pai I took a 3-hour bus trip to Chiang Mai where I stayed at an overpriced hotel but on the best little alley there. Overpriced in Thailand is $25 a night, and I had a TV in the room. Sweet! My little alley also had a little raggae bar that was super chill where the owner played a eukaleli and served 50baht ($1.50) yummy mojitos. A few doors down was Thai Thai Restaurant. The first time I went in there the owner/cook, P-Sea (not to be confused with PC, she told me a few hundred times), sat down and talked with me for an hour. She told me the next time I came in I could order anything I wanted and she’d take me in the kitchen and show me how to cook it. And she did! And she let me videotape it (actually she insisted). She could explain all the ingredients except one, which she said she didn’t know if I have in my country. So I took a photo of this ‘Pork Flavoring,’ or in my best guess, MSG. No wonder I was so hooked on this lady’s cooking. “P-Sea,” I said, “Yes, I do think we have this in our country.” I didn’t tell her we don’t cook with it cause it’ll kill ya, though.
P-Sea also hooked me up with a discount for a one-day trek that included riding elephants, trekking, visiting a hill tribe, a bamboo boat ride, and a waterfall visit. I had a really great day because I enjoyed the people in my group. There were 2 doctors from London, a dentist and political student from Germany and a couple from Holland. It’s so beautiful that you can meet people from so far away with such different backgrounds yet share time and jokes seamlessly. So we did that day. Aside from them, I felt very sad. Talk about extreme overexposure. Those poor elephants were chained up and clocked on the head with a stick that had a metal hook on the end of it and I hated every minute of it. It was against my better judgment to go and I should have listened to my instincts. I’ve tried to do some volunteer work on this trip, helping elephants that have been rescued from these situations and I was too late to join the program. I feel shameful for spending money and ’supporting’ - monetarily - the elephant farm. It’s been sitting heavy on my heart ever since.
Back in Chiang Mai I met up with Cling from Holland and we did some shopping at the Chiang Mai night market (great stuff!) and took a night train to Bangkok to start our trip south. We decided to make a party train and brought some beers and Thai rum with us. We were being silly and dancing to cheesy pop music when we decided to go to the other car for a quick cigarette, when we encroached on the REAL Party Train to Bangkok. The dining car was packed with people, smokey and dark but with blinky neon lights and everyone was dancing to some Indian-inspired dance music. We hit the jackpot! After ordering a beer I danced with the older ladies from France that reminded me of my mom and had a perfect night of singing and dancing. Over a week into my trip and this was the first time I had a ‘night out’ of partying and it was surreal. Being bounced back and forth by the train and watching the night sky from the windows, smiling huge and shakin my butt. A memorable and needed night in Thailand.
We arrived in Bangkok right before 8am, just in time for the Thai anthem to be broadcast over the speakers. 2 people tried to stop us and I thought they were trying to sell me something so I barreled through. “Stop, please.” Then I realized this is part of their culture. 8am the anthem is played and everyone stops and salutes until it’s over. So after I finally figured it out I felt like an idiot for my insensitivity and joined in. They thanked me over and over afterward. Oops.
With a day to kill in Bangkok before a night bus south (yes, another night in transit…) we took a long boat on the river and went through some of the canals and got to see some temples, fishing villages and the river culture in general, with people in their little boats selling cokes, red bulls, hats, hand fans, etc. I will never forget one woman who approached us because I think I have never seen anyone as truly, genuinely happy as this woman. And why shouldn’t she be? She wanders around all day on her little boat meeting people and visiting friends on the canals. It makes me realize that life is what you make it. The simplest things can really bring the most joy.
I wish I could have learned more from that woman, because the rest of my day could have been great - spending a day sight-seeing in Bangkok. But I was exhausted, hungover, out of it. I wandered without looking at maps and was lost all day. I saw the inside of 2 cabs which both dropped me where I asked to be, but then I couldn’t find my way from there. I walked all day and by the time I got on the night bus I was cranky and dirty and slept all the way down.
My 6pm bus arrived - somewhere - at 6am. We were at an outdoor café covered from the rain. There we had a 1 ½ hour wait, then took a small van to another place where we waited for another bus… then that took us a couple hours to the ferry. It was Hell. It took forever. By the time we got to the ferry they were holding us because the waters were so rough. The rain was pouring and the wind was kicking. We got on the boat after about 20 minutes and for the next 2 hours we slammed through the high waves and I could only think how lucky I was for having a stable stomach, for once.
I’ve been on Koh Phangan for 2 nights now and it’s been a tropical monsoon the whole time. I am stayed at a place called Haad Son Resort and have finished 1 book and am almost through another. I have a bungalow with a covered porch and hammock. I’ve been lying in the hammock reading, chain-smoking and enjoying the sounds of the rain and wind, and the glistening, dripping tropical plants surrounding me. The food here is amazing and I had the best Thai fried Red Snapped with chili sauce in the world. The grounds are beautiful and there’s a great beach bar - with swings, hammocks, torches, overgrown palm tree shade, huts. I just wish the weather was nice enough to enjoy it! Today I am heading to The Santuary, to clean out my tar-stained lungs and exhausted liver, doing a 7-day detox cleanse and lots of yoga.
Sitting here today thinking... this is the calmest, happiest and whole I’ve ever been. What’s next?
Friday, March 18, 2011
Ode to My Mom's Piece of Mind
Dear Mom,
I have to tell you 2 of the funniest stories before I forget!
Yesterday when I was in Bangkok waiting for my train I got a knot in my stomach and realized I had to poo. I ran to the bathroom and realized I had to pay to use it. No problem, I pulled out some money (it was only pennies) and got in the cue. The line meant nothing and in order to get to the stall I needed to push my way there. By now I was sort of desperate, if you know what I mean, and started pushing my way. I was so relieved to get in the stall until I remembered where I was and that things are very different here. There wasn't a toilet but rather a porcelain hole with tracks on the side so your feet don't slip. Not ideal, but okay... when you gotta go you gotta go. After squatting and doing my business I realized bathrooms here don't have toilet paper either. They have a little squirt nozzle, like the one we used to have in the kitchen sink. Reminded me of home! Except I never poo'd in your sink. So, I removed it and squirt my butt, leaving the stall not knowing if I got it clean or dry enough to not have a wet spot on my bum. Good thing I was only getting a sleeper train and in those clothes for the next 15 hours.
Speaking of the sleeper train, it was remarkably clean and comfortable. My only issue was that I woke myself up from a roaring snore due to my dust mite allergies kicking in. In the morning I heard the guy next to me telling his girlfriend he couldn't sleep because the woman next to him (ahem, me) was roaring snoring. Oops.
Did I tell you I'm the only person traveling with a suitcase? Today it became a bit of an issue when I got into Pai and learned the taxis are motorbikes. You would have laughed if you'd seen me on the back of this motorbike... I had a huge backpack on and the driver had my suitcase between his legs. Luckily the 3km ride wasn't too bad. The roads were at least paved, even if they were hilly and covered in pot holes.
Last night I stayed in town until 10pm and decided to walk back to my country house alone instead of finding a taxi/motorbike/tuk-tuk. The countryside in Thailand is so desolate and beautiful. At one point a pack of dogs blocked my way barking but eventually let me pass. Other than that I enjoyed my night walk under the moon and stars in this foreign, far-away place.
Having a great time! See, I told you there was nothing to worry about!
Love, Me
I have to tell you 2 of the funniest stories before I forget!
Yesterday when I was in Bangkok waiting for my train I got a knot in my stomach and realized I had to poo. I ran to the bathroom and realized I had to pay to use it. No problem, I pulled out some money (it was only pennies) and got in the cue. The line meant nothing and in order to get to the stall I needed to push my way there. By now I was sort of desperate, if you know what I mean, and started pushing my way. I was so relieved to get in the stall until I remembered where I was and that things are very different here. There wasn't a toilet but rather a porcelain hole with tracks on the side so your feet don't slip. Not ideal, but okay... when you gotta go you gotta go. After squatting and doing my business I realized bathrooms here don't have toilet paper either. They have a little squirt nozzle, like the one we used to have in the kitchen sink. Reminded me of home! Except I never poo'd in your sink. So, I removed it and squirt my butt, leaving the stall not knowing if I got it clean or dry enough to not have a wet spot on my bum. Good thing I was only getting a sleeper train and in those clothes for the next 15 hours.
Speaking of the sleeper train, it was remarkably clean and comfortable. My only issue was that I woke myself up from a roaring snore due to my dust mite allergies kicking in. In the morning I heard the guy next to me telling his girlfriend he couldn't sleep because the woman next to him (ahem, me) was roaring snoring. Oops.
Did I tell you I'm the only person traveling with a suitcase? Today it became a bit of an issue when I got into Pai and learned the taxis are motorbikes. You would have laughed if you'd seen me on the back of this motorbike... I had a huge backpack on and the driver had my suitcase between his legs. Luckily the 3km ride wasn't too bad. The roads were at least paved, even if they were hilly and covered in pot holes.
Last night I stayed in town until 10pm and decided to walk back to my country house alone instead of finding a taxi/motorbike/tuk-tuk. The countryside in Thailand is so desolate and beautiful. At one point a pack of dogs blocked my way barking but eventually let me pass. Other than that I enjoyed my night walk under the moon and stars in this foreign, far-away place.
Having a great time! See, I told you there was nothing to worry about!
Love, Me
Singha and Cigarettes
Hello from Bangkok, Thailand… the creepiest city I’ve ever been to. I arrived after midnight 2 nights ago and had a pre-booked hotel that I chose based on the Lonely Planet guide. They recommended the area I stayed in since it was one of the closest to the airport, even if is was some 35km away. The neighborhood is called Sukhumvit, or in English: Hookerville.
The hotel itself was fine and there were a lot of upscale hotels there, but it was the things people that lined the streets that made me uncomfortable and gave me severe anxiety. This neighborhood had small alley-like roads lined with vacant construction sites, 7-11s and massage parlors, and flooded with tuk-tuks, taxis, cars, bikes, people, dogs, cats… you name it. I don’t mind playing Frogger and coming from NY the traffic doesn’t really phase me. So I will focus on the other parts.
The main road was lined with shopping booths jammed into every inch selling random (cool) things, like light-weight comfy pants, t-shirts, thai god statues, fruit (coconuts with a straw - love!), hand-carved wooden dildos (really.), etc. And between the booths are some of the most beautiful young women dressed in the highest heels and shortest skirts. Around them I was invisible but the old white men were not. Let’s just saw the term ‘street meat’ took on a whole new meaning for me.
A handful of friends gave me tons of recommendations before I got here and one was to eat the street food. So I hunted down some street food and realized a English-speaking vegetarian with high food preparation standards is in for serious trouble if I’m going to venture to street food land. After my first attempt was made with (mystery) meat (that had been pre-cut and piled in plastic shopping bags sitting in the sun) a nice young Thai person helped me explain I wanted only vegis. The food lady had no problem with that and was more than happy to not clean the wok or use a different prep plate and make me vegi fried rice. Sweet.
While I was waiting for my rice this beautiful Asian woman dressed in high heels and a tight dress walked up to the booth and told her gorgeous daughter to say hi to the food lady. I couldn’t believe the eyes that were sunken into this stunning woman’s face. To say they were red and bloodshot would be quite an understatement. They looked more like they had been removed from her face, scrubbed with a brillo pad, and replaced. I’ve seen a fair share of people drugged up and this even shocked me. I think the most surprising part was that other than her eyes, she was perfect. Her hair was done perfectly and she had lovely posture. It was just… sad.
Okay so for the rest… I made a list of things that made an impression on me. Here’s that list:
- Massages. Everywhere, and CHEAP! I got a 1 ½ hour Thai Massage - probably the best I ever had - and it cost me about $12. Then later, when I was too nervous to go anywhere else, I got a 1 hour foot reflexology massage that cost about $10. Both in the same day. That’s how I roll.
a. Oil massages. Usually only about $3 more than a regular massage and are offered everywhere. They include a happy ending. I still haven’t figured out if it’s just for men, but I’m not about to try to find out.
- Old white men with gorgeous, young Thai girlfriends everywhere. Hey, I guess if I was a lonely old man I’d pay for it too. A week with one of these sweet little ladies has to be less than what they spent on meds each week.
- Very scared skinny dogs. There are more cats than dogs but the dogs all look horrified. I tried to buy dog treats but apparently they don’t sell them here. I walked down a street and found 2 dogs seemingly attached at the ass, under the tail. Like seriously attached. They moved together, together. I was seriously wondering if they were trying to protect their butts from the horny old white men.
- 7-11s are on every block and I can’t understand what any of the snack food is. All the labels are in Thai and have little cartoons on them. Where US 7-11s have gum on the counter, Thai 7-11s have KY Jelly.
- The only way I was able to settle down and calm my anxiety was Singha and cigarettes. I plan to use this tried and true method when necessary. Actually a Long Island Iced Tea (of all things - yes - I really did order that in Thailand) and a cigarette also worked, so I will keep that approach as back-up.
- English… not widely spoken! I know that shouldn’t be a surprise but I really just thought that since it’s such an international, large city it would be spoken more. Wrong. Oh, and signs in Thai are impossible to read if you don’t know Thai. Again, I should have expected it but I didn’t. As the only western woman on one of the alleys I was walking down a frustrated woman ran up to me and asked me, “Do you speak Australian?” I was very proud to be American at that moment.
- Speaking of Americans, why do so many older Americans travel to foreign countries wearing the American flag or camouflage on their shirts and belly bags? I just don’t understand it.
- The first person I spoke to when I arrived was my cab driver, who tried so hard to speak English to me but I couldn’t understand much. I did understand when he told me some of the streets were flooded. He said, “You know flood?” I told him I did. Then he said, “What the flood?” and laughed for the rest of the trip repeating it over and over. What the flood?
After a good sleep (thanks to that LIIT) I checked out today and got lost in Chinatown and I LOVED it. I’ve been in Chinatown in NY and SF yet this one was super exciting for me. The streets were also filled with speeding cars and tuk-tuks and lined with little shops and and street food but here it was much safer and more pleasant (I.e., no hookers. Visible). Chinatown is a maze of little streets with stores that sell shoes, DVDs, stickers, purses, hair bows, gold-plated coffins, gold necklaces, giant bags of mushrooms and rice and Chinese food.
After a day getting lost in Chinatown I’m sitting in the train station waiting for my overnight train to Chang Mai. I had some time to kill so I got a $5 1-hour foot massage and a $2 Pad Thai. I have the softest feet in Bangkok.
The hotel itself was fine and there were a lot of upscale hotels there, but it was the things people that lined the streets that made me uncomfortable and gave me severe anxiety. This neighborhood had small alley-like roads lined with vacant construction sites, 7-11s and massage parlors, and flooded with tuk-tuks, taxis, cars, bikes, people, dogs, cats… you name it. I don’t mind playing Frogger and coming from NY the traffic doesn’t really phase me. So I will focus on the other parts.
The main road was lined with shopping booths jammed into every inch selling random (cool) things, like light-weight comfy pants, t-shirts, thai god statues, fruit (coconuts with a straw - love!), hand-carved wooden dildos (really.), etc. And between the booths are some of the most beautiful young women dressed in the highest heels and shortest skirts. Around them I was invisible but the old white men were not. Let’s just saw the term ‘street meat’ took on a whole new meaning for me.
A handful of friends gave me tons of recommendations before I got here and one was to eat the street food. So I hunted down some street food and realized a English-speaking vegetarian with high food preparation standards is in for serious trouble if I’m going to venture to street food land. After my first attempt was made with (mystery) meat (that had been pre-cut and piled in plastic shopping bags sitting in the sun) a nice young Thai person helped me explain I wanted only vegis. The food lady had no problem with that and was more than happy to not clean the wok or use a different prep plate and make me vegi fried rice. Sweet.
While I was waiting for my rice this beautiful Asian woman dressed in high heels and a tight dress walked up to the booth and told her gorgeous daughter to say hi to the food lady. I couldn’t believe the eyes that were sunken into this stunning woman’s face. To say they were red and bloodshot would be quite an understatement. They looked more like they had been removed from her face, scrubbed with a brillo pad, and replaced. I’ve seen a fair share of people drugged up and this even shocked me. I think the most surprising part was that other than her eyes, she was perfect. Her hair was done perfectly and she had lovely posture. It was just… sad.
Okay so for the rest… I made a list of things that made an impression on me. Here’s that list:
- Massages. Everywhere, and CHEAP! I got a 1 ½ hour Thai Massage - probably the best I ever had - and it cost me about $12. Then later, when I was too nervous to go anywhere else, I got a 1 hour foot reflexology massage that cost about $10. Both in the same day. That’s how I roll.
a. Oil massages. Usually only about $3 more than a regular massage and are offered everywhere. They include a happy ending. I still haven’t figured out if it’s just for men, but I’m not about to try to find out.
- Old white men with gorgeous, young Thai girlfriends everywhere. Hey, I guess if I was a lonely old man I’d pay for it too. A week with one of these sweet little ladies has to be less than what they spent on meds each week.
- Very scared skinny dogs. There are more cats than dogs but the dogs all look horrified. I tried to buy dog treats but apparently they don’t sell them here. I walked down a street and found 2 dogs seemingly attached at the ass, under the tail. Like seriously attached. They moved together, together. I was seriously wondering if they were trying to protect their butts from the horny old white men.
- 7-11s are on every block and I can’t understand what any of the snack food is. All the labels are in Thai and have little cartoons on them. Where US 7-11s have gum on the counter, Thai 7-11s have KY Jelly.
- The only way I was able to settle down and calm my anxiety was Singha and cigarettes. I plan to use this tried and true method when necessary. Actually a Long Island Iced Tea (of all things - yes - I really did order that in Thailand) and a cigarette also worked, so I will keep that approach as back-up.
- English… not widely spoken! I know that shouldn’t be a surprise but I really just thought that since it’s such an international, large city it would be spoken more. Wrong. Oh, and signs in Thai are impossible to read if you don’t know Thai. Again, I should have expected it but I didn’t. As the only western woman on one of the alleys I was walking down a frustrated woman ran up to me and asked me, “Do you speak Australian?” I was very proud to be American at that moment.
- Speaking of Americans, why do so many older Americans travel to foreign countries wearing the American flag or camouflage on their shirts and belly bags? I just don’t understand it.
- The first person I spoke to when I arrived was my cab driver, who tried so hard to speak English to me but I couldn’t understand much. I did understand when he told me some of the streets were flooded. He said, “You know flood?” I told him I did. Then he said, “What the flood?” and laughed for the rest of the trip repeating it over and over. What the flood?
After a good sleep (thanks to that LIIT) I checked out today and got lost in Chinatown and I LOVED it. I’ve been in Chinatown in NY and SF yet this one was super exciting for me. The streets were also filled with speeding cars and tuk-tuks and lined with little shops and and street food but here it was much safer and more pleasant (I.e., no hookers. Visible). Chinatown is a maze of little streets with stores that sell shoes, DVDs, stickers, purses, hair bows, gold-plated coffins, gold necklaces, giant bags of mushrooms and rice and Chinese food.
After a day getting lost in Chinatown I’m sitting in the train station waiting for my overnight train to Chang Mai. I had some time to kill so I got a $5 1-hour foot massage and a $2 Pad Thai. I have the softest feet in Bangkok.
Monday, February 07, 2011
February 8, 2011
It is absolutely impossible to paint the picture of what I see and where I am at the moment. I am in a pretty blue and green striped hammock in the shade with tiny pieces of warm sun poking through the surrounding plant life and hitting me softly, on the face. On an arm. There is a lovely warm breeze that fevers up the treetops so they craft a beautiful symphony - combined with the cacatas cherps - of openness, nature, peacefulness, joy and hope. I am in Hopewell, which is on a pretty desolate coast along one the hundreds of little sounds and waterways that make up the Marlborough Sound on the northern part of the South Island of New Zealand. Are you keeping up??
I am overlooking calm turquoise waters that look only like the waters I’ve seen in the Virgin Islands. But the rest of my view looks worlds away from the Caribbean. As it is.
Luscious mountains surround me as far as I can see in every direction beyond the sound. Only a few homes sit on these hills and the rest is untouched exquisiteness. I can see a boat that’s been brought onto land but that is really the only sign of human life anywhere. There are luminous birdsongs and one lone seagull suspended in the light winds at the shoreline.
Inside my little hammock I am on my laptop (!) (SHAME!) and enjoying a glass of New Zealand Pinot which tastes lovely, as the lightness and delicateness of the wine perfectly fit in with my surroundings. I am reflecting on the kayaking we did this morning on these lovely waters.
This is a stark contrast from last night. After taking a 3-hour windy ferry from Wellington (on the southern tip of the north island) to the south island we drove into the sounds to a basic campsite which offered a flat place to sleep right on the waters and a picnic table. The rest we had to wing, which would have been much easier if it didn’t start downpouring right after we erected the tent in the early afternoon. Being the master campers we are we were perfectly protected from the cyclone surrounding us in Dean’s huge rain-proof, yet incredibly well-ventilated, tent. From what I could tell the well-ventilated part was a huge selling point for him, so I’ve got to give a shout-out to the ventilation. Woop woop!
We went to sleep pretty early, as we have been so far each night, and also woke up before 7... AS WE HAVE BEEN. This is nonsensical for me because I love to sleep late. But even on Sunday I woke at 6 and went for a jog to watch the sunrise. What the hell is that all about!?
Speaking of, Saturday we were in Rotorua (N Island) and went to a great festival, Raggae-muffin. The raggae was really good and while we grooved I sat in slight culture-shock (really culture-adjustment that overwhelmed my thoughts). It was mostly early-20s Mauris (Mauris are the ‘Indians’ of New Zealand and in Rotorua 35% of the population). They look Hawaiian a bit. They are beautiful and dark-skinned with beautiful features. The women have really big bellies. The men seem much skinnier and toned than the women. Another score for me. ;)
There we stayed in a hostel that was noisy all night and reminded me I’m old.
I am traveling with a very handsome Dean who I met in Barcelona through my friend Richard in October. We don’t know each other well and I swear if you bumped into us here, in this blue-green water-surrounded heaven, you’d never know we were nearly strangers. Traveling with anyone is a bit scary, and traveling with someone you just got a good vibe from can range from really fun to suicidal. Luckily we are floating on the really fun side and we are enjoying the easiness of being remote with nothing scheduled… no where to be, no one to see, nothing to do… our only task is to enjoy every moment and every piece of this earth we are exploring, and to laugh, respect, and relax. And for that, I am so grateful. And putting away the technology.
Peace xo
It is absolutely impossible to paint the picture of what I see and where I am at the moment. I am in a pretty blue and green striped hammock in the shade with tiny pieces of warm sun poking through the surrounding plant life and hitting me softly, on the face. On an arm. There is a lovely warm breeze that fevers up the treetops so they craft a beautiful symphony - combined with the cacatas cherps - of openness, nature, peacefulness, joy and hope. I am in Hopewell, which is on a pretty desolate coast along one the hundreds of little sounds and waterways that make up the Marlborough Sound on the northern part of the South Island of New Zealand. Are you keeping up??
I am overlooking calm turquoise waters that look only like the waters I’ve seen in the Virgin Islands. But the rest of my view looks worlds away from the Caribbean. As it is.
Luscious mountains surround me as far as I can see in every direction beyond the sound. Only a few homes sit on these hills and the rest is untouched exquisiteness. I can see a boat that’s been brought onto land but that is really the only sign of human life anywhere. There are luminous birdsongs and one lone seagull suspended in the light winds at the shoreline.
Inside my little hammock I am on my laptop (!) (SHAME!) and enjoying a glass of New Zealand Pinot which tastes lovely, as the lightness and delicateness of the wine perfectly fit in with my surroundings. I am reflecting on the kayaking we did this morning on these lovely waters.
This is a stark contrast from last night. After taking a 3-hour windy ferry from Wellington (on the southern tip of the north island) to the south island we drove into the sounds to a basic campsite which offered a flat place to sleep right on the waters and a picnic table. The rest we had to wing, which would have been much easier if it didn’t start downpouring right after we erected the tent in the early afternoon. Being the master campers we are we were perfectly protected from the cyclone surrounding us in Dean’s huge rain-proof, yet incredibly well-ventilated, tent. From what I could tell the well-ventilated part was a huge selling point for him, so I’ve got to give a shout-out to the ventilation. Woop woop!
We went to sleep pretty early, as we have been so far each night, and also woke up before 7... AS WE HAVE BEEN. This is nonsensical for me because I love to sleep late. But even on Sunday I woke at 6 and went for a jog to watch the sunrise. What the hell is that all about!?
Speaking of, Saturday we were in Rotorua (N Island) and went to a great festival, Raggae-muffin. The raggae was really good and while we grooved I sat in slight culture-shock (really culture-adjustment that overwhelmed my thoughts). It was mostly early-20s Mauris (Mauris are the ‘Indians’ of New Zealand and in Rotorua 35% of the population). They look Hawaiian a bit. They are beautiful and dark-skinned with beautiful features. The women have really big bellies. The men seem much skinnier and toned than the women. Another score for me. ;)
There we stayed in a hostel that was noisy all night and reminded me I’m old.
I am traveling with a very handsome Dean who I met in Barcelona through my friend Richard in October. We don’t know each other well and I swear if you bumped into us here, in this blue-green water-surrounded heaven, you’d never know we were nearly strangers. Traveling with anyone is a bit scary, and traveling with someone you just got a good vibe from can range from really fun to suicidal. Luckily we are floating on the really fun side and we are enjoying the easiness of being remote with nothing scheduled… no where to be, no one to see, nothing to do… our only task is to enjoy every moment and every piece of this earth we are exploring, and to laugh, respect, and relax. And for that, I am so grateful. And putting away the technology.
Peace xo
January 17, 2011
I’m sitting on a Lufthansa flight from Orlando to Frankfurt, and then BCN. 2 glasses of wine and a xanax in and my heart is still aching. I had a great time with my parents, spending a month in Hernando with them, living in their rental house with my puppy and kitty. My heart breaks leaving all of them. Although I didn’t grow up there, it is my ‘home’ in the states now, and after this month it really does feel like home. Waking up, walking the dog, then stopping in to see my parents and have a coffee. Then going back to my place and going for a hike with the dog. Then going home, cooking something super healthy and fresh. Then heading to the rents for happy hour, which sometimes starts at 3. I guess this is what life is like when you’re retired. Unfortunately my mid-life crisis and pseudo retirement is ending soon since I don’t have the savings to do this forever. But I do have a lot to look forward to and now I know. Doing yoga overlooking the slowly flowing lake, with birds bobbing for food while the dog looks ridiculously confused at me and then gently sniffs and licks me while I’m trying to meditate. It really is a little piece of heaven.
Tomorrow I will be in a new apartment I’ve never seen in a new neighborhood of Barcelona. I love change. Today my feelings are bittersweet. I am pained but what I am leaving. I am a little nervous about living in a new place. I’m also pretty excited about learning about a new hood and meeting new people. It feels good to feel. I feel loved and blessed at the moment. My heart is intact. The next few months bring more travel and adventure, and hopefully love and not heartbreak. To be continued.
I’m sitting on a Lufthansa flight from Orlando to Frankfurt, and then BCN. 2 glasses of wine and a xanax in and my heart is still aching. I had a great time with my parents, spending a month in Hernando with them, living in their rental house with my puppy and kitty. My heart breaks leaving all of them. Although I didn’t grow up there, it is my ‘home’ in the states now, and after this month it really does feel like home. Waking up, walking the dog, then stopping in to see my parents and have a coffee. Then going back to my place and going for a hike with the dog. Then going home, cooking something super healthy and fresh. Then heading to the rents for happy hour, which sometimes starts at 3. I guess this is what life is like when you’re retired. Unfortunately my mid-life crisis and pseudo retirement is ending soon since I don’t have the savings to do this forever. But I do have a lot to look forward to and now I know. Doing yoga overlooking the slowly flowing lake, with birds bobbing for food while the dog looks ridiculously confused at me and then gently sniffs and licks me while I’m trying to meditate. It really is a little piece of heaven.
Tomorrow I will be in a new apartment I’ve never seen in a new neighborhood of Barcelona. I love change. Today my feelings are bittersweet. I am pained but what I am leaving. I am a little nervous about living in a new place. I’m also pretty excited about learning about a new hood and meeting new people. It feels good to feel. I feel loved and blessed at the moment. My heart is intact. The next few months bring more travel and adventure, and hopefully love and not heartbreak. To be continued.
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
my last night in barcelona. for now.
it's fuckingbullshit. i am weeping like a little girl and pouting my lower lip out like it's been hit with a baseball. nothing feels sweet and buttterfly-like. it feels sad and scary because of the genuine comfort i feel in life RIGHT..NOW. it feels like the end of a play, when everyone hugs and does a full-crew curtsy for the crowd. it's astounding to look around at these people you've spent difficult and funny times with. people you started to get *at the core*, and people you let yourself just be YOU (ME) with. and the reality is, this is the end of this play. all the characters have learned their places and found a place to be comfortable and totally crazy and expressive. we know how we interact with each others' characters. we have certain ones where we have an unspoken relationship with and secretly look after, love, flirt, adore. we have others who we are used to standing in the same room with for hours each week, yet know nothing of them... or don't fucking care... and each piece is essential to the machine running properly. the dynamic on a macro level is perfection and ridiculously beautiful.
i had a series of love-at-first-sight moments here, with more people i've allowed in in a really long time. for the first time in a long time i feel surrounded by a family, a crew, and i am scared to leave it even for a day because i never want to lose what i've found here. in one year i have seen the very opposite ends of life. i've felt life-threatening despair. i found wholeness and openness. i have let my fear drive me to closeness and surrender to the intimacy and ongoing adjustments you have to succumb to in order to have tranquility flowing melodically. that would be seriously scary perfection if you get all that to jive constantly and in unison. i'm proud i've just swam in the waters.
it's insane that so much happiness can bring forward such a sadness. i guess i've actually found 'home.' for years i've been looking for a place to want to root down. i have definitely, completely found it in barcelona. i have a long way before coming back and finding my next HOME, and rekindling my friendships i've gone without for months (um, ok, a shot a jaeger and we'll be half way there... ;) ).
i also have a chest full of love for my new venezuelan brothers. i haven't shared an apt with people in a long time, and these boys had their moments... but when i think of them i think of all those evenings on the beach, singing and laughing, and always knowing they would take care of me first and foremost. i found myself somewhere between a girlfriend/sister/mom figure with them, and they let me in... even when i convinced them to change the wall color, furniture and lighting. they helped me with everything. they loved me from the moment i arrived. i don't ever expect to find a roommate situation like this again. and this is just another reason i sit here so melancholy tonight. ((poor me)) ((sorrrrrrry))
The Beatles
Lennon/McCartney
Love, love, love, love, love, love, love, love, love.
There's nothing you can do that can't be done.
Nothing you can sing that can't be sung.
Nothing you can say but you can learn how to play the game
It's easy.
There's nothing you can make that can't be made.
No one you can save that can't be saved.
Nothing you can do but you can learn how to be you
in time - It's easy.
All you need is love, all you need is love,
All you need is love, love, love is all you need.
Love, love, love, love, love, love, love, love, love.
All you need is love, all you need is love,
All you need is love, love, love is all you need.
There's nothing you can know that isn't known.
Nothing you can see that isn't shown.
Nowhere you can be that isn't where you're meant to be.
It's easy.
All you need is love, all you need is love,
All you need is love, love, love is all you need.
All you need is love (all together now)
All you need is love (everybody)
All you need is love, love, love is all you need.
i had a series of love-at-first-sight moments here, with more people i've allowed in in a really long time. for the first time in a long time i feel surrounded by a family, a crew, and i am scared to leave it even for a day because i never want to lose what i've found here. in one year i have seen the very opposite ends of life. i've felt life-threatening despair. i found wholeness and openness. i have let my fear drive me to closeness and surrender to the intimacy and ongoing adjustments you have to succumb to in order to have tranquility flowing melodically. that would be seriously scary perfection if you get all that to jive constantly and in unison. i'm proud i've just swam in the waters.
it's insane that so much happiness can bring forward such a sadness. i guess i've actually found 'home.' for years i've been looking for a place to want to root down. i have definitely, completely found it in barcelona. i have a long way before coming back and finding my next HOME, and rekindling my friendships i've gone without for months (um, ok, a shot a jaeger and we'll be half way there... ;) ).
i also have a chest full of love for my new venezuelan brothers. i haven't shared an apt with people in a long time, and these boys had their moments... but when i think of them i think of all those evenings on the beach, singing and laughing, and always knowing they would take care of me first and foremost. i found myself somewhere between a girlfriend/sister/mom figure with them, and they let me in... even when i convinced them to change the wall color, furniture and lighting. they helped me with everything. they loved me from the moment i arrived. i don't ever expect to find a roommate situation like this again. and this is just another reason i sit here so melancholy tonight. ((poor me)) ((sorrrrrrry))
The Beatles
Lennon/McCartney
Love, love, love, love, love, love, love, love, love.
There's nothing you can do that can't be done.
Nothing you can sing that can't be sung.
Nothing you can say but you can learn how to play the game
It's easy.
There's nothing you can make that can't be made.
No one you can save that can't be saved.
Nothing you can do but you can learn how to be you
in time - It's easy.
All you need is love, all you need is love,
All you need is love, love, love is all you need.
Love, love, love, love, love, love, love, love, love.
All you need is love, all you need is love,
All you need is love, love, love is all you need.
There's nothing you can know that isn't known.
Nothing you can see that isn't shown.
Nowhere you can be that isn't where you're meant to be.
It's easy.
All you need is love, all you need is love,
All you need is love, love, love is all you need.
All you need is love (all together now)
All you need is love (everybody)
All you need is love, love, love is all you need.
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